Rome: some practicalities

The city built on the Seven Hills, which are Quirinale, Campidoglio (or Capitolino), Viminale, Esquilino, Celio, Aventino and Palatino, with the Tiber circling it, is still in many senses the 'Caput mundi' (capital of the world).

It is the city in the first, original and fundamental sense of the word, the 'urbs', the centre of the empire, as opposed to the provinces and the periphery.

GETTING AROUND

The underground system (subway if you're American) is the fastest mode of public transport within the city, operating daily from 5.30am to 11.30pm (until 12.30am on Saturdays). It is called 'metropolitana' or 'metro' for short; hence the big red M indicating the entrance to the subway. Trains run approximately every 7-10 minutes. It has two lines, Linea A (red) and Linea B (blue). They intersect at Termini station, so you have to go through Termini when you need to change line.

Tickets cost 1 euro (about 60 pence, or USD 1.15), and are valid for 75 minutes of travel and can be used for one underground journey and unlimited bus travel. They can be bought at tobacco shops ('Tabacchi' in Italian, recognizable by a white T on a dark background sign), bars, news stands ('chioschi' or 'edicole') and vending machines in metro stations; the machines sometimes don't work, so it's probably a good idea to purchase tickets in advance from the shops. Some hotels sell bus tickets. The driver does not sell tickets. Be careful because there are many inspectors and, if you are caught without a ticket, you'll be fined. Booklets of tickets are available at tabacchi and in some terminals. You can also buy daily and weekly passes.

Building an underground system for Rome has been difficult, because whenever workers start digging, they discover archaeological treasures hidden underneath the city's surface, and heavy earth-moving has to stop for some time.

To limit traffic in the historical centre of Rome, a 'Fascia Blu' (blue area) has been introduced, where only holders of a special permit can drive during most of the week.
Most of the historic centre is closed to normal traffic, with traffic wardens or electronic gates controlling the entrance points to the centre. You are not allowed to drive to the Limited Traffic Zone from 6.30am to 6.00pm Monday to Friday and from 2pm to 6pm on Saturdays, unless you are a resident or have a special permit. If you wish to drive to your hotel in this area, in order to avoid a fine contact the hotel management who will fax your number plate to the authorities.

ROME AIRPORT INFORMATION

Rome's main international airport is Leonardo da Vinci Airport, commonly known as Fiumicino, which is the busiest in Italy and is a hub for flights between Europe and the Middle East and Africa. Just after the large Fiumicino Airport opened in 1960, a new motorway was built to connect it to central Rome through the Magliana area. Large hotels for business travellers and convention visitors have sprung up nearby.
Fiumicino is about 30 miles southwest of the centre of Rome. Getting to and from it is easy by public transport. Taxis are plentiful, or you can take the Airport Shuttle van. Unlike in London, Italian taxi drivers help you with your luggage. The AirportShuttle, at € 26 one person, is good value. Tel. +39/06.42013469 or +39/06.4740451 or +39/06.42014507 - Fax +39/06.47821053 - e-mail: airportshuttle@airportshuttle.it.

Ciampino Airport is Rome's second international airport. It is located 20 miles southeast of the city center, and is more difficult to transfer from/to by public transport because buses are not frequent, stop early and do not connect well with the underground trains.
The AirportShuttle has a door to door service from both Fiumicino and Ciampino airports to Rome hotels or private residences.

BEST KNOWN VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS

* Ristorante Jaya Sai Ma Address: Via Angelo Bargoni, 11/18, Rome, 00153. Tel: +39 06 5812840. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 8pm to 12pm. Area: Trastevere.

* Ristorante Arancia Blu Restaurant and wine bar. Address: Via dei Latini 65, 00185, Rome. Tel: +39 06 4454105. Open: every evening and Sunday lunch time. Good quality vegetarian food, reasonably priced. Vegetarian restaurant within posh wine bar (beware of wine prices). Area: Via Tiburtina, Porta San Lorenzo.

* Il Margutta Vegetariano RistorArte Address: Via Margutta 118, 00187, Rome. Tel: +39 06 32650577. Fax: +39 06 3218457. E-mail: staff@ilmargutta.it. Open: every day, all year round. English is spoken. Fine vegetarian Italian cuisine, with vegan menu as well. It also serves brunches with all-you-can-eat buffet for 19-25 euros. Very famous, established since 1979, it is considered by some to be one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Europe and one of the best of all restaurants in Rome. Elegant and upmarket. It is in the historical centre, in the Via Margutta, rich in history and art connections, full of ancient craft shops. Area: very central, near Piazza di Spagna (Spanish Steps) and Piazza del Popolo.

* Taverna Vegetariana L'Insalatiera Address: Via Trionfale 94, 00195, Rome. Tel: +39 06 39742975. Open: Monday to Saturday from noon to 3.30pm and from 7pm to midnight. Traditional Italian vegetarian restaurant and take away. No smoking. Average price of a meal, excluding drinks, is about 15.50 €. All credit cards accepted. Area: quartiere Umbertino di Prati, near the Vatican, close to Piazzale Clodio and the flower market.

* Ristorante Govinda Address: Via S. Maria del Pianto, 16, 00186, Rome. Tel: +39 06 68891540. E-mail address: govindaroma@tiscalinet.it. Open: Monday to Friday from 12.30 to 3pm. Hare Krishna cultural centre and Indian vegetarian cooking. Very good value; you have to join the Govinda Centre. Area: Largo Argentina.